The Future of Tokyo Cuisine: A Journey Through Tradition and Innovation

Anthony Bourdain once said, “I love Tokyo. If I had to eat only in one city for the rest of my life, Tokyo would be it. Most chefs I know would agree with me.” I couldn’t agree more.

Recently, I attended an event that highlighted the depth and diversity of Tokyo’s culinary scene, from time-honored traditions to cutting-edge, sustainable cuisine. The night was hosted by three of the city's top chefs, including two Michelin-starred masters. As a food blogger living in Tokyo, I’m no stranger to extraordinary meals. But this? This was next level—a foodie’s dream come true. An invitation like that was simply irresistible.

Dishes Prepared by Chef Yoshiyuki Funya

• Bluefin Tuna and Green Onion Hot Pot – Originating in Edo, this dish reflects a time when tuna, once discarded due to spoilage, was salvaged by simmering it with leeks and koikuchi (dark) soy sauce—transforming it into a beloved staple of the common people.
• Wild Boar Loin Marinated in Edo-Style Sweet Miso – A sustainable delicacy, wild boar is marinated in sweet miso for three days, then grilled to perfection. In Japan, wild boar has long been considered a valuable source of protein since ancient times.
• Marinated Tuna Nigiri Sushi – Developed in the Edo period to extend shelf life, marinating tuna in soy sauce not only improved preservation but also enhanced its umami and natural flavors.

Kappo Funya (割烹　船生)

The word kappo (割烹)—meaning "to cut and cook"—defines this intimate style of cuisine. With each dish prepared in full view, the chef transforms seasonal ingredients into a study of balance and restraint.

After visiting Kappo Funya, continue your culinary journey with my other recommended Edo-era restaurants.

Scene 2- Variety of Modernity

The surprises kept coming. Before we had even finished our last bites and sips of sake, Chef Goto took center stage, a large styrofoam box balanced between his hands.

Delivered fresh from Hokkaido, his first act was a tegani—hairy crab—lifted effortlessly from its icy bed. With a practiced motion, he pried off its shell, revealing the prized kani miso inside. Then came the invitation: those willing and brave could step up to the counter, teaspoon in hand, to scoop out a sample. This delicacy, with its rich, briny depth, reminded me of uni (sea urchin). It was a perfect example of mottainai—Japan’s deep-rooted philosophy of minimizing waste, where even the crab’s organs (or what I might call its brains) are transformed into something exquisite.

Then, the scent of butter melting in a hot pan filled the room. Chef Goto held up two pristine pieces of shirako—cod milt. “Any guesses?” he asked. Moments later, the creamy delicacy hit the pan, searing to a golden crisp. I had eaten shirako before, but never like this: paired with French cheese and a black truffle vinaigrette, it was sheer decadence.

And still, the night wasn’t over. Our final surprise was inspired by a beloved Japanese dish, though none of us could quite guess which. Thin ribbons of wagyu met the searing-hot pan, its marbled fat sizzling into something almost transcendent. Then came soft scrambled eggs, a bold, glossy brown sauce, and delicate miniature greens. Finally, he wrapped everything in a delicately thin, green chrysanthemum crepe—a sukiyaki-inspired revelation. One bite, and it dissolved on my tongue.

Signature Dishes prepared by Chef Yusuke Goto

Pan-Seared Cod Milt with Mont d'Or Cheese and Black Truffle Vinaigrette: A dish that marries the richness of Japanese milt, French cheese, and truffles—each ingredient competing for attention with its own seasonal qualities.

Japanese Wagyu with Scrambled Eggs and Chrysanthemum Crepe: Another innovative pairing of seared wagyu, creamy scrambled eggs, and garland chrysanthemum-infused crepes.

Hairy Crab Tartare with Cauliflower Cream and Konbu Jelly: A fusion of traditional Japanese flavors with the rich sweetness of hairy crab miso, served with a smooth cauliflower crème and kelp gelée.

AMOUR (アムール)

Tasting each of Chef Goto’s creations felt like being a kid again—filled with curiosity and awe. His imaginative combinations pushed boundaries in the best way, like delicate, flaky crab atop silky-smooth French cream, finished with a dusting of bright yuzu zest. A flavor unlike anything I’ve ever experienced.

For a taste of Michelin-starred Japanese-French fusion, reserve your table at AMOUR.

Scene 3- The Future

I would have been more than content if the evening had ended right then and there. I savored every last drop of my Japanese white wine, convinced the night had already reached its peak. But soon, we were ushered downstairs, boarded onto buses, and shuttled off to our next destination: Daigo, an upscale temple of vegetarian cuisine nestled in Atago, Minato Ward.

Funny enough, I had already been here once that evening—just a couple of hours earlier—after mistakenly showing up at the wrong venue. When I stepped inside this time, I was greeted once again by the same kind woman in the purple kimono who had helped me earlier. She had gone out of her way earlier that night to help me catch a cab to the correct venue. Now, seeing her again, I couldn’t help but smile.

After exiting the elevator and slipping off our shoes, we were led into an ornate tatami-mat banquet room. One wouldn’t expect to find a garden view in the middle of Tokyo—let alone on the second floor. Nor would one expect to be handed a Manhattan—crafted with bourbon-barreled Japanese whisky—at a 75-year-old Japanese restaurant. But as it turns out, Daigo’s fourth-generation owner-chef, Chef Nomura, once worked as a bartender.

As I savored each exquisite vegetarian dish, we listened to Chef Nomura, joined by actress Sahel Rosa, speak about his vision for a more sustainable future. My Japanese wasn’t strong enough to catch every word, but his passion needed no translation. Later, I had the chance to ask him about his Zen Buddhist influences and mindfulness in his approach to running Daigo. His words sent shivers through me—waves of inspiration that brought me to tears.

Hobayaki: Mushrooms wrapped in green onion miso and magnolia leaves, grilled to perfection, blending seasonal vegetables with morel and porcini mushrooms.

A Night to Remember

From the wisdom of Edo to the innovation of modern Tokyo and the mindful elegance of shojin ryori, this was more than a feast—it was a guided journey through Japan’s culinary past, present, and future. Each dish told a story, each bite a new discovery.

If you’re seeking an unforgettable dining experience in Tokyo, these three restaurants should be at the top of your list. And with over 170 Michelin-starred restaurants in the city, dining here is a never-ending adventure. Even if you visited each one, you'd only be scratching the surface of what Tokyo has to offer.

Which of these dining experiences intrigued you the most? Which dish would you try first? Honestly, after a night like this, picking a favorite feels impossible. Let me know in the comments!

And when the evening of incredible food couldn't have gotten any better, we were all given a take-home box of Chef Yusuke Nomura's delicious Oscar Wilde donuts —dairy and egg-free but who could tell!? And this was after we were already served a refreshing "clean water jelly" for dessert. Did not stop me!

After hearing Chef Nomura’s vision for sustainable food, I left not just full but with a deeper appreciation for the future of dining—where innovation and mindfulness go hand in hand. If optimism has a flavor, it just might be plant-based and perfectly glazed a sugary blue or red.

"The optimist sees the doughnut, the pessimist sees the hole." – Oscar Wilde

Acknowledgments

First, I want to express my heartfelt thanks to the Tokyo Food Promotion 2024 Executive Committee and the Tokyo Metropolitan Government for organizing this extraordinary culinary event and for making me feel so welcome and cared for throughout the evening. My sincere gratitude also goes to everyone working behind the scenes to make this memorable night possible.

A special thank you to Chef Yoshiyuki Funyu, Chef Yusuke Goto, and Chef Yusuke Nomura for generously sharing their time, talent, and vision. As a Japanese food blogger, it was both inspiring and humbling to witness firsthand the artistry of such masters. I’m also deeply grateful to Miyuki Omori for the kind invitation and her patience, and to actress Sahel Rosa for her heartfelt presentation, which truly resonated with me. Last but not least, a big thank you to the lovely woman in the purple kimono for her help—without her, I wouldn’t have made it to the right venue!